Blackheads Beware: 4 Cosmetic Ingredients that May be Making Your Blackhead Problem Worse
Have you ever used a “blackhead treatment” product that seemed to have made your condition even worse ? Ever been puzzled why that “oil-free” cleanser makes you break out even more? Well the culprit just may be in the ingredients. The term “oil-free” can often be misleading. Oil free commonly refers to the absence of mineral oil in a product. But there may be some synthetic derivatives of oil or other irritants that may be harmful to acne prone skin. Below are four ingredients you should look out for in your blackhead treatment products.
1. Lanolin
Lanolin is one of the most common ingredients in cosmetic products, used for skin moisturization. Lanolin, in its natural form, is the oil from sheep skin extracted from wool. Pure lanolin in this form may or may not be harmful to those with acne. Some argue that pure lanolin will not cause breakouts; others claim that the fatty acids of lanolin share similarities to the fatty acids of sebum, which can trigger acne in those who are predisposed to the condition.
Most cosmetics on the market do not use pure lanolin, but synthetic derivatives. Synthetic lanolins, such as acetylated and etoxylated lanolins, are definitely oily, comedogenic and should be avoided at all costs. These lanolins actually penetrate the pores better than natural lanolin. If you decide to use lanolin, only use pure natural lanolin oil, and test a small patch of skin to check for adverse effects.
2. SD Alcohol
SD Alcohol is a denatured alcohol used as a solvent. SD alcohol used as a main ingredient, can be irritating and overly drying the skin, causing overproduction of oil to compensate for dryness. Small amounts of SD Alcohol may not be a cause for concern, and is sometimes used in conjunction with salicylic acid.
3. Isopropyl Myristate
Isopropyl Myristate is often used as a thickening agent to help a smoother application of a product. This penetrating oil is known to clog pores, aggravate acne and can cause some allergic reactions to the skin. There are also other chemical compounds that act similar to isopropy myristate that should be avoided. The most commonly used are: isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl isothermal, putty sterate, isostearyl neopentonate, myristyl myristate, decyl oleate, octyl sterate, octyl palmitate and isocetyl stearate and PPG myristyl propionate. You will definitely want to put any product with these ingredients back on the shelf!
4. D & C Pigments
D & C pigments are dyes that give some products red coloring. Some of these dyes are derived from coal tars known to be comedogenic. Some of these dyes including D & C Red #9 and D & C Red #40, have been tested for comedogenicity; these were found to be the most problematic of the various red pigments.
***A note on mineral oil (Paraffinum Liquidum)...****
I myself have been guilty of advising anyone with acne or blackheads to stay away from this ingredient. Mineral oil has gotten a bad rep for clogging pores, exacerbating acne problems. However,a 2005 study published the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, states this is a myth - finding that cosmetic grade mineral oil is not comedogenic at all. Though some may experience sensitivity to mineral oil, it is not generally a cause of concern.
It’s important to note that everyone is different, and your skin may or may not react adversely to the above ingredients. If you notice any of these ingredients in your products that seems to work well, keep using it. On the other hand, if you are using products with these ingredients that don’t seem to be working for you, stop using them immediately. When shopping for a blackhead removal treatment, opt for labeling that states it is “non-comodegenic” instead of “oil-free”.
